The fascinating northwest of Namibia

A carefully crafted tour by the Namibian Scientific Society in collaboration with Sense of Africa

written by Katja Lanz 

30.05.2024–09.06.2024

Windhoek – Erongo Mountains – Brandberg – Ugab River – Twyfelfontein (UNESCO World Heritage Site) – Sesfontein – Epupa Falls – Opuwo – Ovamboland – Tsumeb – Windhoek

As we gathered together anticipating the tour towards the northern parts of Namibia, I felt honoured to be bestowed the privilege of compiling a comprehensive report accounting for the countless heart-warming experiences along the way. Although I have only been in the country less than five months the crew felt that it would do justice for a fresh perspective to tell my story about the country. The introduction to the country provided me with an exceptional opportunity to learn about the incredible richness of northwestern Namibia its geography, history, geology, and plants not to forget the diverse culture.

On the morning of May 30, 2024, waiting patiently at the departure point, 9 adventurous women and one curious man assembled for a journey towards the north-west of Namibia. The air was alive with the promise of discovery as we boarded the 22-seater bus. Ah, but there was a twist, yours truly, the newcomer, made a fashionably late entrance. Nevertheless, our journey commenced punctually. Leading us into the vast landscapes of Namibia was none other than Armin, our friendly guide and jack-of-all-trades, professional driver, gravel road expert, and a fountain of knowledge. His tales, woven with humour, painted vivid pictures of Namibia’s complex history. Alongside him was José, our ever-present assistant and navigator whose keen eye and camera lens would record and capture our journey in snapshots of fleeting moments and timeless landscapes.

After departing Windhoek, our first halt was at the remarkable church in Karibib. Decorated with trilingual slogans in captivating design. The structure now serves as a sanctuary not for the congregating of people, but for the feathered residence in the area where we met and were welcomed by the church leaders. Continuing on the road we approached the town of Omaruru alongside the Omaruru River, on its banks lies Erongo Mountain Winery, with its welcoming atmosphere and pleasant smells of wines and whisky, here we discovered the intriguing taste that elephant dung flavours whiskey which turned out to be a great conversation starter during our delightful wine tasting session. We also were privileged to see first-hand how different types of whiskeys are made. Driving through Omaruru, a place with deep historical roots, also holds the personal histories of our guides Armin and José. With Armin cleverly using the clock to point out historical landmarks “At 2 o’clock you will see …” and José passionately guiding us through the Rhenish Mission House, recounting tales of missionary history and bygone eras. Their deep connection to Omaruru resonated in every word spoken, highlighting the profound significance this place holds for them.

Later on, at Omaruru Guesthouse, instead of the expected braai, we enjoyed the first of many evenings of delicious dinners in wonderful company. On May 31, 2024, we ventured westward along the rugged paths of the Erongo Mountains, Our path led us to Okombahe, where village life unfolded before us. The tidy local church built after the famous Martin Luther and the sight of schoolchildren lining up at the food counter offered glimpses into everyday life. Witnessing the water-cooled predecessor of the refrigerator and the cast-iron three-pot underscored the privilege of experiencing their world up close. After we refreshed at Cactus & Coffee Teagarden in Uis, surrounded by flowering quiver trees and the striking Bushman Poisons, we marvelled at the gradual rise of the majestic Brandberg from the barren landscape as we drove towards it. Despite navigating off the planned road, our unexpected turn led us to the foot of the Brandberg which afforded us a close-up of the majestic mountain as we turned back we eventually made it to Ondjamba Hills on time and we nested up there for the night. ‘Ondjamba Hills’ means elegant sanctuary, it is cleverly integrated into its natural surroundings. Here, between the wind and chill of the hill, a magical stillness descended at 9 p.m., offering a peaceful end to our day.

Saturday, June 1, 2024

As dawn broke, the Brandberg’s colours shifted spectacularly, painting the landscape with hues that seemed almost unreal. Setting off early, we journeyed with two cars and guides along the diverse, winding, dry riverbed of the Ugab. It wasn’t long before we encountered the first of many majestic African bush elephants (Loxodonta africana). One particularly bold young bull repeatedly challenged our presence, injecting a sense of exhilaration into our adventure. Amidst the towering mountain formations, we paused for a serene tea and coffee break, where Armin captivated us with tales of historical events and geological transformations spanning centuries and millennia. Our reverie was momentarily interrupted by the sight of two black-breasted snake eagles (Circaetus pectoralis) gracefully soaring above us. For those who couldn't get enough of the breathtaking views, a sundowner tour was offered, inviting us to soak in the stunning vistas and reflect on the day's unforgettable experiences.

Sunday, June 2, 2024

The next morning, a relatively short stretch of our journey brought us to Twyfelfontein. From this point onward, I frequently found myself seated next to botanist Luise Hoffmann. Just as on the last trip, she remained the undisputed authority on tree identification. The indispensable reference book, Trees & Shrubs of Namibia, was always within reach, allowing us to identify and closely examine the diverse flora around us. Here in Damaraland, the Damara broom euphorbia (Euphorbia damarana) flourishes spectacularly. Furthermore, the mopane tree (Colophospermum mopane), abundant in the northwest, was beginning to showcase its stunning autumnal colours. At the Damara Living Museum, we discovered that almost every part of this predominant tree is utilized. The Damara people, who introduced us to their ancient customs, lead a fascinating double life, seamlessly balancing modernity and tradition. Their performance, though staged, was vibrant and captivating. The ladies on our tour enjoyed traditional makeovers, and José nearly lost our bus during a ritual game of Owela (ǁkhus). Our adventure continued at the Twyfelfontein UNESCO World Heritage Site, where our local guide unravelled the intricate symbolism behind the unique rock paintings and engravings (petroglyphs). To our amazement, water did indeed flow from the “unreliable source.” The approach to the Twyfelfontein Country Lodge was nothing short of dramatic, winding through impressive rock formations and setting a grand stage for our arrival. The evening buffet, bustling with crowds, was a stark contrast to the serene landscapes we had been exploring, reminding us of the vibrant and varied ways in which beauty can be experienced and celebrated.

Monday, June 3, 2024

En route to Sesfontein, our journey unfolded sightings of springboks and strikingly dark-skinned giraffes gracefully pacing along the roadside. Passing through Palmwag, we crossed the Red Line, marking the western veterinary border. At Warmquelle, our fearless guide Armin led us along a scenic 6km trail, navigating hills and valleys to the enchanting Ongongo Falls. Suitably named in the Herero language, the falls held a truly “magical” allure. While some ventured into the water willingly, Alrun, in a moment of unintended grace, found herself immersed fully clothed yet admirably composed. After a lovely swim, The Fort Sesfontein Lodge welcomed us with a tranquil courtyard shaded by palms. Despite the old German fort’s current state of slight neglect, its historical charm was profound. Against this backdrop, Armin entertained us with tales of the fort's past, including a visit to the cemetery and amusing historical anecdotes. Though four of the six cited sources remain elusive, Sesfontein itself, regrettably, lacked its usual appeal during our visit.

Tuesday, June 4, 2024

Our journey towards the northernmost point of our tour was marked by the graceful presence of ostriches crossing our path. During a refuelling stop in Opuwo, the rich tapestry of Namibia's diverse tribes unfolded before us. Himba, Owambo, and Herero people, decorated in both modern and traditional attire, mingled seamlessly in the streets and supermarkets. The harmonious coexistence of these ethnic groups was a captivating sight. It was here that Armin shared his tales of Vita-Tom alias Oorlog-Tom, adding depth to the sparse Wikipedia entry about this historical figure. Moreover navigating the winding Joubert Pass, we encountered a breathtaking diversity of trees, making it clear why a botanical exploration at a slow pace preferably by donkey would be a rewarding endeavor. The landscape constantly transformed around us, with majestic baobabs (Adansonia digitata) becoming a more frequent sight. Through the dust and heat, we finally reached Epupa. After traversing hundreds of kilometres of sun-baked terrain and dry riverbeds, the appearance of the Kunene River felt almost surreal yet deeply welcoming. Here, we encountered the invasive Madagascar rubber vine (Cryptostegia grandiflora) for the first time, a sign of ecological challenges in the region. Nestled beside the Gondwana Omarunga Epupa Falls Camp, under the canopy of Makalani palms (Hyphaene petersiana), we were spellbound by the first sight of the waterfall, adorned with a rainbow at its easternmost edge. Although unable to view the falls in their entirety due to our location, a misplanning by Gondwana led Armin to negotiate two bottles of champagne as compensation. We savoured this unexpected indulgence with champagne glasses in hand, basking in the natural spectacle unfolding before us.

Wednesday, June 5, 2024

In the morning, we were fortunate to receive a heartfelt invitation to visit an authentic Himba village. Welcomed warmly by the numerous wives and children of a Himba chief of the village, it was evident he had likely gone ahead with the cattle. This wasn't a staged performance but a genuine glimpse into original tribal life, expertly translated by our Himba guide. Despite their traditional lifestyle, the women and children showed a keen interest in the modern world, captivated by the images and videos on our mobile phones. Furthermore, the aroma of the ochre-butter fat mixture that nourished their skin lingered in our memories. Both Margret and José impressed us with their dance skills, bringing laughter to the young Himba women whose faces blushed even redder. In the afternoon, we ascended a nearby hill offering a breathtaking view of the expansive array of falls and pools below. The beauty of this natural wonder cannot be captured by cameras, leaving us in awe until after sunset. As we reluctantly departed, a blood fruit tree (Terminalia prunioides) adorned the landscape, adding a final touch of splendour before our descent.

Thursday, June 6, 2024

As we returned to Opuwo, the capital of Kaokaland, the sight of Himba women in the supermarket felt oddly familiar after our immersive village visit. A highlight awaited us at Scents of Namibia, where we witnessed a shining example of successful community engagement, utilizing nature’s resources sustainably, including Mopane and Commiphora, the project empowered Himba women to earn income while delighting customers with exquisite oils and creams proudly labelled “Made in Namibia.” At the serene Opuwo Country Lodge, we took time to reflect on the experiences from the past days. Despite a few ailments circulating among us, the icy infinity pool beckoned, offering a refreshing respite and the perfect stage for yet another breathtaking sunset.

 

Friday, June 7, 2024

Embarking on another day of exploration, our journey led us through a tapestry of Namibia's landscapes and cultural treasures. Our first stop was the Ruacana Power Station, where a passionate Nampower employee enlightened us about the powerhouse behind 60% of Namibia’s electricity. Excitement filled the air as each of us eagerly participated in safety checks, blowing into tubes and donning smart safety helmets for an immersive experience. Our route took an unexpected turn to the Ombalantu Baobab near Outapi. Despite being encircled by a tight fence, the sheer grandeur of this ancient giant left us awestruck, echoing the majesty of its fellow baobabs dotting the landscape. Venturing inside through a large trunk opening, we marvelled at its historical role as a refuge, post office, church, and even a kindergarten a testament to its enduring significance. On our way traversing through Ovamboland, particularly the vibrant Four O region, we were struck by its bustling activity and dense population. Freya Lund, our insightful fellow traveller takes us through some parts of Ovamboland based on her personal experience, grieved at the encroaching fences that now spoiled the once picturesque vistas, and recalling fond memories of a more open and scenic past. As the day wound down, we found sanctuary at the Nakambale Adventure Lodge, nestled in spacious tents. The evening unfolded with the aroma of freshly baked pizza from a wood-fired oven, a delicious reward after a day brimming with exploration and the uncovering of Namibia’s rich heritage.

Saturday, June 8, 2024

On our penultimate day, we embarked on a jam-packed itinerary that left us overwhelmed yet exhilarated by the depth of experiences. We began at the Finnish mission and cemetery, situated conveniently next to our lodge. Captivated by our guide's passionate storytelling, we absorbed every detail of the Finnish missionaries' profound legacy and their interactions with the local community. From there, our journey led us to the vibrant Ondonga village, where we immersed ourselves briefly before pressing on to Tsumeb. Along the way, a quick stop at Oshivelo provided the perfect moment to savour the last remnants of biltong, a savoury delight before crossing the Redline. In Tsumeb, the caretaker and curator Anneliese Bruns led us through a journey of discovery at the Tsumeb Museum, each exhibit a testament to the town’s rich history and cultural tapestry. Anneliese’s narratives breathed life into each artefact, weaving a vivid tapestry of the past. Our exploration continued at the Tsumeb Mineralogic and Mining Museum (TMMM), guided by Jens Frautschy into microscopic realms where ordinary rocks revealed extraordinary beauty under UV light, evoking cosmic landscapes and sparking our imagination. The day culminated in reflection at the Minen Hotel bar, where we gathered to unwind, share stories, and marvel at the day's revelations. Amidst the company and refreshments, we reflected on a day brimming with educational treasures and sensory delights, grateful for every moment of our unforgettable journey through Namibia's cultural and natural wonders.

Sunday, June 9, 2024

On our six-hour drive back to Windhoek, we reflected on our nine-day journey with warmth and nostalgia. Margret Hoffmann’s delicious cookies and cake made their final appearance, adding sweetness to our conversations and memories. Despite a slight hiccup and a faint burning smell from the bus, we handled it calmly and quickly. Grateful for everyone who made this trip possible and our lively fellow travellers, we returned to Windhoek with lasting bonds and cherished experiences.

From central Namibia to the remote corners of northwest Namibia, our journey has been an unforgettable adventure. Guided by Armin and José, we explored rugged mountains, serene rivers, and encountered vibrant wildlife and communities along the way. Each day brought new wonders, ancient rock art at Twyfelfontein, the majestic Epupa Falls, and the rich culture of Himba villages just to mention a few. We immersed ourselves in Namibia’s heritage, tasted local flavours, and learned stories of resilience and tradition. As we bid farewell, we carry memories of friendship and discovery. This journey has deepened my connection to Namibia’s past and left us eager to return and explore more of its natural beauty.